Blue balls is possibly the worst thing that can ever happen to a man. If I half to explain what blue balls is then you are shit out of luck. This blog is PG13 and if your sick mind wants to know the true meaning you can look it up on wikipedia.
As we left Calgary this is the view we got. Half chubbed at this point. The mountains were giving us a hard on. We were so stoked!
As we left Calgary this is the view we got. Half chubbed at this point. The mountains were giving us a hard on. We were so stoked!
I mean really there is no place in the world that is as perfect for all kinds of climbing and skiing in one place.
We were walking around Banff with full on boners. We were in heaven. We have found Mecca!
First Objective: Cascade Falls (the picture above)
After going to a local gear shop our goals were smashed. It was about 40F and the salesperson said that the climb has been falling down for the past week or so. "It is real sketch," he said. The best time to climb it would be at night or really early in the morning when the ice is cold enough and stable enough that it wont fall out from under our feet. So we bailed on that plan.
Instead we went to Field and climbed Massey's a blue WI4 with 3 pitches. (pictures below)
Had to walk on the railroad tracks to get there.
Purdy blue ice.
Took off my helmet for a sec to put on my hat. Though it would have been better to move to the side to do that.
Keith leading the second pitch.
Rappelling in the dark is always fun.
Day 2: Objective Weeping Wall
It is no longer 40F but as you can probably tell it is snowing. And it was snowing pretty hard. For this climb the Avi-danger was Low and the amount of new snowfall was barely an inch. The were no avi-gullies above it, so we figured we might as well try it. A video of our experience is below.
We learned an important lesson on this climb. Sluff avalanches hurt! And can actually be pretty dangerous.
As the days have continued the Avi danger has gotten worse and worse. For the past few days it has been High to Extreme from Treeline up. This pretty much shuts down all our big objectives and to top it off even below treeline the weather is baking and the ice climbs are pissing water.
I know I sound bitter but I'm just blue balled. Im in this awesome place and I cant get any. Give me something Canada, please!
Quote of the day
Keith is way up there on Moonlight.
